RICK & MORTY PINBALL

Update Notes

NOTES: 

 - If your build is earlier than 2020.02.17, reset your settings after you update.

 - If you are updating from 2020.03.17 or earlier you must run the update TWO TIMES.

 - For best results always use the USB 3.0 (blue) port on the CPU

 - A USB 3.0 thumb drive is also highly recommended.

 - Make sure there is only ONE pkg file on the USB stick and that the ".pkg" extension is correct

Build 2021.04.05:

 - Added: Adventure: Goodbye Moonmen

 - Added: Another vanity high score type: The Most Jerry

 - Added: Setting 'Adventure Either Ramp Counts to Qualify' - leaves both ramps enabled for adventure 

               qualify. Disabled by default.

 - Added: New "AGGRESSIVE" option for the flipper hold that will reduce timings more, but 

                    generate more heat.

 - Added: Setting - "Topper Rotation Motor" [ENABLE, DISABLE] - Enabled by default.

 - Fixed: Fatality shot in Blood Dome could be collected more than once.

 - Fixed: Right drop stayed purple in Blood Dome if the shot was used up

 - Fixed: Flasher indication of endgame shot for Blood Dome would go off if MB started.

 - Fixed: Mystery handling changed to avoid a race condition issue when the game is very busy

 - Changed: Music adventures no longer vacate the dimension if it was a feature dimension with music.

 - Changed: Default flipper hold patterns updated to new timings to reduce heat build up.

Flipper Settings Details:

Flipper knockdown should no longer  be a problem with any setting, but you may get more 'dip and 

recover' with the lower (weaker) hold settings. To help the flippers recover well, make sure to adjust

your EOS switches so that they close/open near the  end of the flipper stroke.  That switch opening is

what lets the game know it needs to recover.

"Flipper Hold Pulse Pattern" has 3 options: ORIGINAL, DEFAULT, and AGGRESSIVE.  

 - The "ORIGINAL" setting is what the game used from launch until the end of 2020.

 - The "DEFAULT" setting reduces hold power in favor of heat conservation.

 - The "AGGRESSIVE" setting increases hold power, but will generate more heat over time.

The "DEFAULT" and "AGRESSIVE" settings basically continue in a straight line, so in

order of "weakest/low heat" to "strongest/most heat" it goes like this:

1. DEFAULT / LOW

2. DEFAULT / MEDIUM

3. DEFAULT / HIGH

4. AGGRESSIVE / LOW

5. AGGRESSIVE / MEDIUM

6. AGGRESSIVE / HIGH

We encourage you to start with the DEFAULT/MEDIUM setting and only scale up toward the stronger

settings if necessary - then only go up one step at a time and see how it plays, rather than jumping 

immediately to the high end.

Alice Cooper’s Nightmare Castle

Version 1.1.0.5 (23-MAR-2021)

CLICK HERE FOR ACNC CODE UPDATES!

To learn more about Total Nuclear Annihilation, CLICK HERE to find all documentation and the full back-story on this awesome game!

CLICK HERE FOR TNA CODE UPDATES! 

Click orange text for America’s Most Haunted PRODUCTION GAME Switch & Lamp Matrix charts 

For America’s Most Haunted apron cards / instructions,  CLICK HERE

For America’s Most Haunted wiring / board chart,  CLICK HERE

For Spooky Pinball game set up instructions,  CLICK HERE

For Servo Replacement Video,  CLICK HERE

Rubber sizes for AMH

4 – 2.5″ rubber

2 – 3/16″ ID rubber (small purple posts)

4 – 3/8″ OD rubber (small spike posts)

4 – 3/8″ ID rubber (star posts)

4 – post sleeves 1 1/16″

2 – Standard Flipper rubber

Mylar Placement for AMH

CODE UPDATES

For the latest and greatest code for your America’s Most Haunted, simply follow the link below to Ben Heck’s AMH page… he’s developed a new “Auto Loader” program to help simplify the process. All the instructions, files, and documentation has been layed out for you.

www.benheck.com/amh/

ALSO… To finish off your code update, go into the game menu and reset everything to Factory Defaults… then adjust your coil strengths as needed. Zero is low power, 9 is high. Realistically you won’t see much coil strength reduction until you get to the lower numbers.

For Rob Zombie wiring / board chart,  CLICK HERE

For Rob Zombie LAMP / SWITCH charts

For Rob Zombie Game Instruction Apron Cards,  CLICK HERE

Rubber sizes for Rob Zombie’s Spookshow International

3 – 2 1/2″

1 – 3″

3 – 3/8″ OD

3 – 1 1/16″ post sleeves

1 – 1 1/4″

1 – 3/4″

1 – 2″

2 – 3/16″

9 – 3/8″

Mylar Placement for Rob Zombie

Code updates are fairly simple on this game, but please be sure to follow all instructions exactly as described.

Read the instructions shown below. WE CAN’T STRESS THIS ENOUGH…. DO EVERYTHING AS EXPLAINED BELOW IN ORDER, OR YOU WILL HAVE ISSUES!!! Make absolutely sure you use the SD card from your game, and FORMAT IT AS SHOWN. Failure to do so will bomb your EEPROM and force you to send / swap a new one with us.

Download the latest stable code V026 (Media + Firmware),  CLICK HERE
*use manual update process (See image below for machine update process)

WHATSNEW

CLICK HERE FOR A VIDEO ON HOW TO UPDATE YOUR CODE IN ROB ZOMBIE AND LATER GAMES

Visual update process… CLICK PHOTO FOR LARGER VIEW

*PLEASE READ*

Do NOT use a Mac system to format you SD CARD, use Windows 7/10

Do NOT drag the update files from the zip file to the SD CARD.

Do NOT open the zip file and click “extract” to the SD CARD,

Do NOT pull drive immediately when files copy. Right click on drive from computer and select eject. Windows will tell you if its ok to remove the sd card.

Skipping any of these three actions can and will cause the game to run in an unexpected manner, or not at all.

For Latest Domino’s Code (rev 5): CLICK HERE

For Domino’s Lamp Matrix: CLICK HERE

For Domino’s Switch Matrix: CLICK HERE

For Domino’s Wiring Chart: CLICK HERE

For Latest Jetsons Code (rev 4 – July 27, 2020): CLICK HERE

WHATSNEW : CLICK HERE

For Jetsons Lamp Matrix: CLICK HERE

For Jetsons Switch Matrix: CLICK HERE

For Jetsons Wiring Chart: CLICK HERE

FAQ’S

Q – How long will it take me to get my game?

A – We are very proud that we have our games down to 1 initial payment and NOTHING more until your game is complete. We have expanded our production, and we’re moving as quickly as possible to deliver your games!

Q – Can I call and talk to a human?

A – Yes! Dial 815-541-0054… Our phone hours are 8 to 5, Monday through Thursday. After hours email sales questions to kt@spookypinball.com or for tech questions,  service@spookypinball.com  and we’ll do what we can to help during non-business times as well.

Q – What about parts? Will I be able to fix this game down the road with you being such a small company?

A – Can you get every unique part for every game ever made? Odds are with us, you will! Many of our plastic parts are 3D printed and open source. Need a new one? Download the file and print it for free… don’t have 3D printer access? Shoot us and email and we can make one for you now, or 20 years from now. As long as those files exist, the parts are available. We’ll always have ramps on hand for spares, and playfields / plastics can be re-made when demand is needed at any time. The bulk of our common pinball parts (flippers , pops, slings, targets, etc) are available at www.pinballlife.com and are very familiar to you if you’ve ever worked on a game. Our power supplies are readily available as well should one ever fail. We kept all these things as simple as possible just for this reason.

Q – What is your warranty?

A – We’ll cover mechanical, wood, and electronic parts in your game for in home use for 1 year for the original owner of the game. This does not include normal stress wear parts such as rubbers, lighting, or plastics. Warranty starts when the shipping company confirms the game has arrived at your home (or immediately if you pick it up in person). Location use will be 90 days (same as those big pinball companies). We like customers that customize their games, but please understand if you’re tapping into the wiring or board somewhere, you’re doing so at your own risk and voiding your warranty.

Q – What if I change my mind after I make my initial payment? Do I get it back?

A – Here’s the deal… we aren’t a big company with buckets of cash, so when you make your first payment, BE CONFIDENT IN YOUR PURCHASE! All games here are basically custom and made per order… From the first day at Spooky Pinball LLC, when we take your first payment it automatically goes directly into funding your game build. Please don’t put money down because our games are “limited” and you want to hold a spot in line. We pride ourselves in NOT showing games until they are nearly or fully complete so you know what you’re getting before you commit. Once your initial payment is made, we consider the game yours, and you should do the same. We have had a few customers “sell their spot in line” to friends, and we will work with you if something comes up that creates hardships… but again, your initial payment is a commitment to buy, so please treat it as such.

Thanks for reading this… our customers are EVERYTHING to this little company. We do our absolute best to be open and honest about everything we do. If you have further questions on game sales, just contact Morgan (aka Squirrel) at: squirrel@spookypinball.com or KT at kt@spookypinball.com. For tech support help, contact Chris at service@spookypinball.com.

THANK YOU ALL!!!