Update Notes


 - If your build is earlier than 2020.02.17, reset your settings after you update.

 - If you are updating from 2020.03.17 or earlier you must run the update TWO TIMES.

 - For best results always use the USB 3.0 (blue) port on the CPU

 - A USB 3.0 thumb drive is also highly recommended.

 - Make sure there is only ONE pkg file on the USB stick and that the ".pkg" extension is correct

Build 2021.03.02:
 - Fixed: Adventure & Gromfomite started together wouldn't turn on jackpot lights right away.
 - Fixed: Pickle Rick starting from mystery WITH GMB would play music during GMB start.
 - Fixed: Whirly horseshoe lights didn't update properly if GMB started during the mode.
 - Fixed: Slam save video prevented during GET SCHWIFTY and [REDACTED] so the
          main video is not restarted.
 - Fixed: If the ball makes it back into the trough on the jam opto after the ball is in play
          the game can deal with that now.
            to prevent the longer ones from getting cut off.
 - Fixed: Ending multiball during Scary Terry resets the diverter handling, 
          regardless of 'hide' being active on the house.
 - Changed: A flipper tweak suggested by Gerry Stellenberg to prevent unintended flipper hold.
 - Changed: Flipper hold control adjusted based on testing data from Charlie.
 - Changed: Font size on the bottom line of the large dimension change banner reduced
 - Changed: Another shot at fixing up the "drain as schwifty ends" black hole.
 - Changed: Several switches moved to a software (vs hardware) debounce to catch momentary closures better.
 - Changed: The decision was made to move the loopback 'make' detection to the left switch for reliability

Alice Cooper’s Nightmare Castle

Version (19-JAN-2021)


crypt - jackpot was being awarded with ball dropping from upper left exit
crypt - mode would override the increase multiplier insert if it was ready to collect
zombie - inlane flag to fire sfx on flipper was not disabled when mode ended
zombie - values did not reset after headshots
zombie - failed ball save launch (ball rolling back over outer switch) would stigger a head shot event in frenzy
general - multiplier collect light would clean in frank frenzy when flippers are hit, light logic didnt refresh preoperly
general - bash animation for upper drop target would cancel out weapon collection animation due to the "shortcut" process
general - status map updated to account for difficulty
general - crypt mode total was blocking the base display update so the room display wouldnt change behind the scenes
general - room travel was not looking for the just launched flag from a ball save, and awarding a room travel
gereral - timing changed to allow not so fast orbit shots to count as orbits
general - mystery award now says advance to monster, when you advance to monster instead of the old advance 2 rooms
general - score font size reduces a bit when score is 1 billion or more
general - eye/stake target blinks green if weapon is ready to collect. blinks white if right lock is ready
general - monster modes did not obey the weapon/speedrun rules consistantly
general - draining with a weapon would reset in crypt/ethyl selection situation
insects - spinner countdown starts reduction in 4 seconds
frank - flipper skipping didn't update playfield lights immediately
wolf - shooting inner orbit triggers right outer orbit. flag that prevents center shot from triggering wasn't resetting properly
wolf - left/right orbits would trigger negative events when it shouldn't.
wolf - shots opened up for frenzy after mode is completed
bdb - inner orbit to right outer orbit was trigger events when it shouldn't
bdb - outer left orbit to right outer orbit was trigger events when it shouldn't
bdb - check for start condition was allowing bdb to start with a visit to frank instead of a defeat
bdb - time left changed to kick off on mode start instead of first shot made
bdb - game over screen now shows for the player who gets to wizard mode and has balls remaining
weapons - ramp strobe effect was not canceling with room transition
ballroom - status display map had the wrong image. The jacket was the wrong size as well
highscore - catagory font size reduced a bit too allow some larger strings to fit
pit creature - jackpot values were getting out of control, not resetting properly
pit creature - collected weapon did not show instruction when mode started
pit creature - jackpot values did not match collected value
igor - score display value didn't match the collected value
igor - main mode shots didn't apply collected points
igor - mode total did not display correct value
mystery - 2 room advance award only works when you are further into the game (hard)
mystery - first award would block room progress if in foyer
ethyl - if ball didn't capture properly on ethyl start, releasing crypt lock too early would cause ball tracking issues
ethyl - defeat flag was being set before the defeat score was collected which would cause the hurryup value to be too much
alice - ramp light indication speed was set to low
alice - mode total value position changed
zombie - final head shot value was not doubling prior to frenzy
zombie - weapon collected single shot value was not doubled
zombie - rare instance roaming would causing shots to stop roaming
Zombie - next roam shot will be available right before current shot becomes inactive

To learn more about Total Nuclear Annihilation, CLICK HERE to find all documentation and the full back-story on this awesome game!


Click orange text for America’s Most Haunted PRODUCTION GAME Switch & Lamp Matrix charts 

For America’s Most Haunted apron cards / instructions,  CLICK HERE

For America’s Most Haunted wiring / board chart,  CLICK HERE

For Spooky Pinball game set up instructions,  CLICK HERE

For Servo Replacement Video,  CLICK HERE

Rubber sizes for AMH

4 – 2.5″ rubber

2 – 3/16″ ID rubber (small purple posts)

4 – 3/8″ OD rubber (small spike posts)

4 – 3/8″ ID rubber (star posts)

4 – post sleeves 1 1/16″

2 – Standard Flipper rubber

Mylar Placement for AMH


For the latest and greatest code for your America’s Most Haunted, simply follow the link below to Ben Heck’s AMH page… he’s developed a new “Auto Loader” program to help simplify the process. All the instructions, files, and documentation has been layed out for you.


ALSO… To finish off your code update, go into the game menu and reset everything to Factory Defaults… then adjust your coil strengths as needed. Zero is low power, 9 is high. Realistically you won’t see much coil strength reduction until you get to the lower numbers.

For Rob Zombie wiring / board chart,  CLICK HERE

For Rob Zombie LAMP / SWITCH charts

For Rob Zombie Game Instruction Apron Cards,  CLICK HERE

Rubber sizes for Rob Zombie’s Spookshow International

3 – 2 1/2″

1 – 3″

3 – 3/8″ OD

3 – 1 1/16″ post sleeves

1 – 1 1/4″

1 – 3/4″

1 – 2″

2 – 3/16″

9 – 3/8″

Mylar Placement for Rob Zombie

Code updates are fairly simple on this game, but please be sure to follow all instructions exactly as described.

Read the instructions shown below. WE CAN’T STRESS THIS ENOUGH…. DO EVERYTHING AS EXPLAINED BELOW IN ORDER, OR YOU WILL HAVE ISSUES!!! Make absolutely sure you use the SD card from your game, and FORMAT IT AS SHOWN. Failure to do so will bomb your EEPROM and force you to send / swap a new one with us.

Download the latest stable code V026 (Media + Firmware),  CLICK HERE
*use manual update process (See image below for machine update process)



Visual update process… CLICK PHOTO FOR LARGER VIEW


Do NOT drag the update files from the zip file to the SD CARD.

Do NOT open the zip file and click “extract” to the SD CARD,

Do NOT pull drive immediately when files copy. Right click on drive from computer and select eject. Windows will tell you if its ok to remove the sd card.

Skipping any of these three actions can and will cause the game to run in an unexpected manner, or not at all.

For Latest Domino’s Code (rev 5): CLICK HERE

For Domino’s Lamp Matrix: CLICK HERE

For Domino’s Switch Matrix: CLICK HERE

For Domino’s Wiring Chart: CLICK HERE

For Latest Jetsons Code (rev 4 – July 27, 2020): CLICK HERE


For Jetsons Lamp Matrix: CLICK HERE

For Jetsons Switch Matrix: CLICK HERE

For Jetsons Wiring Chart: CLICK HERE


Q – How long will it take me to get my game?

A – We are very proud that we have our games down to 1 initial payment and NOTHING more until your game is complete. We have expanded our production, and we’re moving as quickly as possible to deliver your games!

Q – Can I call and talk to a human?

A – Yes! Dial 815-541-0054… Our phone hours are 8 to 5, Monday through Thursday. After hours email sales questions to kt@spookypinball.com or for tech questions,  service@spookypinball.com  and we’ll do what we can to help during non-business times as well.

Q – What about parts? Will I be able to fix this game down the road with you being such a small company?

A – Can you get every unique part for every game ever made? Odds are with us, you will! Many of our plastic parts are 3D printed and open source. Need a new one? Download the file and print it for free… don’t have 3D printer access? Shoot us and email and we can make one for you now, or 20 years from now. As long as those files exist, the parts are available. We’ll always have ramps on hand for spares, and playfields / plastics can be re-made when demand is needed at any time. The bulk of our common pinball parts (flippers , pops, slings, targets, etc) are available at www.pinballlife.com and are very familiar to you if you’ve ever worked on a game. Our power supplies are readily available as well should one ever fail. We kept all these things as simple as possible just for this reason.

Q – What is your warranty?

A – We’ll cover mechanical, wood, and electronic parts in your game for in home use for 1 year for the original owner of the game. This does not include normal stress wear parts such as rubbers, lighting, or plastics. Warranty starts when the shipping company confirms the game has arrived at your home (or immediately if you pick it up in person). Location use will be 90 days (same as those big pinball companies). We like customers that customize their games, but please understand if you’re tapping into the wiring or board somewhere, you’re doing so at your own risk and voiding your warranty.

Q – What if I change my mind after I make my initial payment? Do I get it back?

A – Here’s the deal… we aren’t a big company with buckets of cash, so when you make your first payment, BE CONFIDENT IN YOUR PURCHASE! All games here are basically custom and made per order… From the first day at Spooky Pinball LLC, when we take your first payment it automatically goes directly into funding your game build. Please don’t put money down because our games are “limited” and you want to hold a spot in line. We pride ourselves in NOT showing games until they are nearly or fully complete so you know what you’re getting before you commit. Once your initial payment is made, we consider the game yours, and you should do the same. We have had a few customers “sell their spot in line” to friends, and we will work with you if something comes up that creates hardships… but again, your initial payment is a commitment to buy, so please treat it as such.

Thanks for reading this… our customers are EVERYTHING to this little company. We do our absolute best to be open and honest about everything we do. If you have further questions on game sales, just contact Morgan (aka Squirrel) at: squirrel@spookypinball.com or KT at kt@spookypinball.com. For tech support help, contact Chris at service@spookypinball.com.